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MADURAI
The Glory of Pandyas
Known as the Athens of the
East, Madurai, the second largest city in Tamil Nadu is situated
on the banks of the river Vaigai. An ancient city, more than
2,500 years old, Madurai is believed to have been built by the
Pandyan King Kulasekara in the 6th century BC. The city is said to
have got its name from the drops of nectar (Mathuram)
that fell from Shiva's locks when he came to bless its
people for constructing a temple for him. Originally
named Madhurapuri or the 'land of nectar', the name later
got modified as Madurai. From such legendary beginnings,
the actual history of Madurai emerges sometime during the
3rd century BC when it was the prosperous Pandya's then
capital which had trading contacts with Greece and Rome.
Apart from a brief period when
it fell to the Cholas, Madurai remained with the Pandyas until
the decline of the empire. The next major rulers of Madurai were
the Vijayanagara kings who won over the territory in 1371. They
appointed the Nayaks as governors who, in time, became powerful
in their own right. The 200 - year old reign of the Nayaks marks
the golden period of Madurai when art, architecture and learning,
scaled new heights. In fact, the most beautiful buildings in the
city including its most famous landmark, the Meenakshi temple,
are Nayak contributions.
But unlike the other temple
cities of Tamil Nadu whose fame relies heavily on the fabulous
contributions of great empires, Madurai, though undoubtedly known
first and foremost for the Meenakshi temple, is very much modern
and progressive city.
Prime Sites
MEENAKSHI
TEMPLE : Located
at the heart of the city, the Meenakshi-Sundareswarar
temple has long been the focus of both Indian and
international tourist attraction as well as one of the
most important places of Hindu pilgrimage. For the people
of Madurai, the temple is the very centre of their
cultural and religious life.
It is said that the people of the city wake up,
not by the call of nature but at the chant of hymns at the
temple. While the major
festivals of Tamil Nadu are celebrated here with gaiety that
equals the rest of the state, the most important moment in
Madurai is the Chitrai festival that is
held in April/May, when the celestial marriage of Meenakshi and
Sundareswarar is celebrated, drawing a huge crowd of people from
all over the state.
This pre-Christian era temple
was actually built by Kulasekara Pandya but it was in ruins
before it was rebuilt by Tirumalai Nayak who brought back the
glory to this magnificient structure.
Of its 12 gopurams, four of the
tallest stand at the outer walls of the temple. The 48.4m high
southern gopuram is the most spectacular and has over 1500
sculptures. From its top, it is possible to obtain a panoramic
view of the city. The Rajagopuram on the eastern side is an
unfinished structure which has a 174 sq.ft base, and had this
tower been completed, it would surely have been the largest of
its kind in the country. The eight smaller gopurams are within
the compounds of the twin temples.
In the Ashta Shakti
Mandapam inside the Meenakshi temple, the sculpted
pillars tell the story of the beautiful princess of Madurai and
her marriage to Lord Siva. Meenakshi was the daughter of King
Malayadwaja Pandya and Queen Kanchanamala, who begot her after
performing several yagnas (sacrificial rites). The
three-year old girl who emerged out of the fire during the final
yagna was found to have three breasts but a divine voice
informed the surprised royal couple that the third breast would
disappear when the girl met her consort. The princess who was
named Meenakshi, grew to be a beautiful young woman of great
valour who conquered several lands and challenged the mightiest
kings including Indra, the King of the Devas. Indira appealed to
Lord Siva for protection and Meenakshi, chasing the fleeing king,
confronted Siva whereby her third breast disappeared. It was
revealed that the princess was actually an incarnation of Parvati
who came to earth to honour a promise given to Kanchanamala in
her previous life. Thus Siva came to Madurai as Sundareswarar to
marry Meenakshi and the two ruled over the kingdom for many years
before they left for their heavenly abode from the spot where the
temple now stands.
The Portamaraikulam
or the golden lotus tank is the place where the Tamil literary
society called Sangam used to meet to decide the merit of the
literary works presented to them. The manuscripts that sank were
dismissed while those that floated were considered to be great
works of literature. On the western end of this tank is the Oonjal
Mandapam where there is a swing on which the two
presiding deities are seated and worshipped every Friday. Next to
this mandapam is the Kilikootu Mandapam or hall of parrots where
there are some beautiful sculptures as well as parrots which
chant the name of Meenakshi. The shrine to the goddess is just
beyond this hall and entry is restricted only to Hindus.
- Sundareswarar
temple :
At the Sundareswarar
temple across the courtyard, Lord Siva is represented as
a lingam and here too, entry is restricted. The corridor outside
the shrine has the stump of a tree under which Indra is believed
to have worshipped a lingam. In the Kambathadi Mandapam
there is a unique idol of Nataraja dancing with his right leg
raised to the shoulder instead of the other way round. The
pillars of the Mandapam are decorated with scenes from the
wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar, many of which depict Siva
and Vishnu together, the latter having come to give Meenakshi
away in marriage.
- The Temple Museum :
It is housed in
the hall of thousand pillars. There are 985 richly carved pillars
here and each one surpasses the other in beauty. More scenes from
the wedding can be seen in the Vasantha Mandapam
or Pudhu Mandapam. It was constructed by
Tirumalai Nayak and is used during the celebration of the spring
festival in April-May.
There are few temples in India
which share the grandeur of this twin-temple complex. Since the
temples is so huge it is quite possible to lose one's bearings
and it is therefore advisable to engage a guide or go with a
person who has already been there several times. 5km. east of the
Meenakshi temple is a tank called Mariamman Teppakulam
with an idol of Vinayaka installed on a platform in the centre.
It is the site of the temple's float festival.
Thirumalai Nayak Mahal :
The palace of
Tirumalai Nayak is about 1 km away from the temple. This
Indo-Saracenic building was constructed in 1523 and was
originally four times as large as it is today. There is
no other building in Madurai which can better illustrate
the architectural style of the Nayaks. The most
remarkable part of this palace is the Swarga Vilasam
which served as the audience hall. Its dome which lies
beyond a huge courtyard is a magnificent example of the
engineering skill of its builders, rising as it does to a
height of 20m without support of any kind.
Koodal Azhagar Temple : This ancient shrine has Vishnu in
sitting, standing and reclining postures one above the other.
Vandiyur Mariamman
Teppakulam : The tank
has a mandapam at the centre enshrining Lord Vigneshwara. -The
Teppakulam float festival is conducted in Jan-Feb.
The Gandhi Museum : The old palace is dedicated to Mahatma
Gandhi.
Timings 10.00-13.00 hrs. and 14.00-17,30 hrs. Ph : 531060
Thirupparankunram (8 Kms): One of the six abodes of Lord
Subramanya.
Azhagar Koil: (21 kms.) A Vishnu temple on a
picturesque wooded hill. During the Chithirai Festival in
April/May, Azhagar travels to Madurai for the Celestial marriage.
Pazhamudhirsolai : One of the six abodes of Lord
Subramanya, is on the same hill, about 4 kms. above.
EXCURSION
- Vaigai Dam :
(70 kms.) A popular picnic spot with
beautiful gardens.
- Kodaikkanal :
(120 kms.) Kodai is a hill station 2130
m above sea level in the Western Ghats. Wooded hills, pleasant
walks, picturesque waterfalls and a magnificent lake make Kodai
one of the most beautiful hill stations in India.
- Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
(Thekkadi) :
(155 kms.)
One can view wildlife in its natural habitat. The forests of this
beautiful sanctuary slope down to a man-made lake where one can
see elephant, gaur, sambhar and even tigers which come to the
lake. Season : Oct. to June.
FESTIVALS
- Avanimoolom Festival - August/September.
- Float Festival - January/February.
- Chitirai Festival - April/May
- Govt. Chithirai Exhibition - April/May.
HOW
TO GET THERE
- By Air :
Madurai Airport is connected with Chennai,
Mumbai - By Rail :
Madurai is a major Railway junction connected
with important cities of Tamil Nadu. - By Road :
Madurai is connected with all the important
cities of South India.
WHERE
TO STAY
- Hotel
Tamil Nadu (TTDC)
Azhagarkoil Road
STD Code : 0452
Tel: 537461 (9 lines)
- Hotel
Tamil Nadu (TTDC)
West Veli Street Tel:
37471 (9 lines)
- Hotel
Madurai Ashok (ITDC)
Azhagar Koil Road Tel:
537531 (10 lines)
- Taj
Madurai (Taj Group)
Pasumalai Hills Tel:
601020, 602300
- Hotel Blue Lines (p) Ltd Near
Airport
Madurai Tel : 670511, 670067
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