The little hill station of MATHERAN, 170km east of Bombay, is set on a narrow north-south ridge, 800m up in the Sahyadri Range. From viewpoints with such names as Porcupine, Monkey and Echo, at the edge of virtually perpendicular cliffs that plunge into steep ravines, you can see way across the hazy plains - on a good day, so they say, as far as Bombay. The town itself, shrouded in thick mist for much of the year, has for the moment one unique attribute; cars, buses, motorbikes and auto-rickshaws are prohibited. That, added to the journey up, on a miniature train that chugs its way through spectacular scenery to the crest of the hill, gives the town an agreeably quaint, time-warped feel. Brightly painted hand-pulled rickshaws trundle along dirt lanes, while monkeys crash across the rusting corrugated-iron roof tops of bungalows.

Matheran (literally "mother forest") has been a popular retreat from the heat of Bombay since the nineteenth century, when it was an exclusive bolt hole for British families. These days, however, few foreign visitors venture up here, and those that do only hang around a couple of days, killing time before a flight, or to sample one of India's most charming colonial-style hotels, Lord's. The season lasts from mid-September to mid-June (at other times it's raining or misty), and is at its most hectic between November and January (Diwali), April and May, or virtually any weekend. There's really nothing to do but relax, wander the woods on foot or horseback, and enjoy the fresh air and views.

As the crow flies, Matheran is only 6.5km from Neral on the plain below, but the train climbs up on 20km of track with no less than 281 curves, said to be among the sharpest on any railway in the world. From 1907, the demanding haul was handled by four complex steam engines. Sadly, they puffed their last in 1980 and were replaced by cast-off diesels from Darjeeling, Shimla and Ooty. The two-hour ride is a treat, especially if you can get a window seat; but be prepared for a squash and hard benches.

How To get There :

• By Train :
  To reach Matheran by train, you must first get to Neral Junction.
  
  1. Mmbai to Neral Junction :
     
     • Deccan Express #1007 (depart CST 6.40am) and
     • Koyana Express #7307 (depart CST 8.45am)
  2. Puna to Neral Junction (2-3hr):
     
     • Sahyadri Express #7304 stops at Neral.
     • Alternately travel upto Karjat and pick slower passenger service from there.
  3. From Neral to Matheran :
     narrow-gauge trains updepart at 8.40am, 11am and 5pm (also 4.15pm, April & May; 2hr). These trains are timed to link up with incoming expresses. Matheran station is in the centre of town on MG Rd.

• By Road :
  All motor vehicles, including shared taxis and minibuses from Neral, have to park at the taxi stand next to the MTDC Holiday Camp at Dasturi Naka, 2km north of the town centre. The telephone area code for Matheran is 02148.

Matheran has plenty of hotels, though few could be termed cheap. Most are close to the railway station on MG Rd and the road behind it, Kasturba Bhavan. Reduced rates may apply for midweek or long stays, and during the rainy off-season (when many places are closed altogether). Virtually all the hotels provide full or half board at reasonable rates, but if you want to eat out, or are on a tight budget, try one of the numerous thali joints around MG Rd.

• Alexander: near Alexander Point, 2km south of the railway station (30251 or Bombay 492 6610). Pleasant wooded location with rooms, slightly dilapidated cottages (some a/c) and good Gujarati restaurant. Rs750-1200.
• Gujarat Bhavan : Maulana Azad Rd (30278 or Bombay 203 0876). Clean and comfortable pure-veg resort hotel, with a range of rooms and cottages (some a/c with TV). Full board only. Rs350-500.
• Hope Hall: MG Rd, opp. Lord's Central (30253). The best of the budget bunch: large, clean en-suite rooms around a secluded yard at the quiet end of town. Great deals off-season, too. Rs100-150.
• Lord's Central: MG Rd (30228 or Bombay 201 8008). Matheran's most characterful hotel, near the railway station. Genteel (non-c/c) Raj-era cottages with terraces, and superb views across the valley from a relaxing garden. Excellent veg and non-veg menu including Parsi and British food. Rs750-1200.
• MTDC Tourist Camp: Dasturi Naka (30277 or Bombay 202 6713). Cottages in a large old colonial house, and a cheap dorm, plus a simple open-air restaurant. Forty minutes walk from the centre of town, but a good option. Up to Rs100-500.
• Prasanna: MG Rd, opposite the railway station (3258). Fairly basic full-board budget lodge; close to the station. A touch pricey. Rs150-500.
• Royal: Kasturba Rd (30247). Spruce and modern, with a large terrace and Matheran's only espresso machine. Rs225-1200.
• Rugby: Vithalrao Kotwal Marg (30291; fax 302532 or Bombay 202 1090). Two minutes' walk up the road opposite the railway station. Old hotel, now expanded, offering a range of rooms around a garden, with a good bakery attached. Rs1200-2200.