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Shrinagar

The soft murmur of river Jhelum is an echo of the easy paced lifestyle of Srinagar. Its waters have flowed gently for ages through the centre of the State capital, the light splash of floating flowers and vegetable markets on the lakes calling each morning into this waterborne city. Srinagar's showpiece, the Dal lake, brightens slowly in the early sunshine with colourful reflections of gaily decorated houseboats. And all the delights of a holiday in Srinagar are finally awakened with the opening of the city bazaars, bringing out a dazzling array of exquisitely crafted work.

The network of waterways laces the city together, and life flows alongside. Suggestive of Alpine chalets, many homes overhang the river but the older quarter of the city is crowded with tulip-shaped domes and the houses here are stacked on narrow streets.

The canals glide past all to mingle in the Dal Lake, its water dancing with a simmering vision of reflected loveliness- the Mughal Gardens, laid out along its shores 400 years ago in a symmetrical profusion of flowers & fountains.

The quickly falling dusk is lit up immediately by the glitter of the city bazaars. Quaint shops crammed with endless treasure troves of Kashmir's renowned handicrafts-all at bargain prices, yet priceless in their delicate beauty.

Prime Sites

  • Dal Lake :
    Srinagar revolves around this expanse of blue water, bustling with a variety of crafts. In a way the lake is Srinagar's aquatic plaza & its heart. Brightly hued houseboats are moored on this lake. Each a comfortable home. Bright awnings & flower baskets sparkling in the sunshine. Mobile markets on Shikaras bob merrily criss-crossing waters with contrasting multitudes of goods & traffic, sing-song voices calling out wares as diverse as fruits & hand-woven carpets. Actually, three lakes in one-Gagribal, Lokut Dal & Bod Dal- the Dal is the obvious base for a holiday in Srinagar. Ringed by mountains, its banks are shadowed by poplars & willows. In Autumn, the lake is covered with lotus leaves & the canals fill up with a tiny plant which turns the surface into a green carpet. The darkening twilight transforms Dal Lake into a shimmering fantasy of lights-houseboats rock gently in the twinkling, sparkling waters, the shikaras stream past, flickering lamps from point to point, the red, dying Sun & a slow rising Moon spark flashes of fire into the black waters.

  • Hari Parbat :
    Crowned by the ruins of a fort, this hill, according to legend, grew out of a pebble dropped by Parvati (a Hindu Goddess) to crush a demon. Though turned to rubble, the thick, massive wall around the fort is an imposing evidence of a historic past. Over the ages, the sides of the hill have provided sites for many temples & shrines.

  • Hazratbal :
    On the shores of Dal lake, this mosque houses one of the holiest Muslim relics-a hair of Prophet Mohammed. The holy relic was brought to Kashmir by Khwaja Noor-ud-din from Bijapur in 1700 A.D. On specific days in the year, it is shown to the faithful who gather in thousands in the courtyard.

  • Shankaracharya Hill :
    The climb to the historic temple atop this hill is rewarded by a panoramic view of Srinagar's busy thoroughfares & blue lakes. The temple on the top is one of the earliest built & is said to be on the site of the Takht-i-Suleiman, or the Throne of Solomon. The top is also connected by a road to a Television tower.

  • The Mughal Gardens :
    Laid out for their pleasure by the Mughal emperors, these gardens create a magical enchantment all their own. Each with a name like the tingling splash of its fountains: Chashma Shahi, Nishat, Shalimar, each a personal vision of paradise with its own special light & colour, ablaze with flowers, chosen for their harmony of scent as well as colour. The dreamy, sensuous beauty is heightened by the sparkling ripple of cascading streams & fountains, limpid pools & airy pavilions. Nishat borders the Dal lake & was laid out by Asaf Khan, Empress Noor Jahan's brother. A garden of pleasure, Chashma Shahi, the royal spring with an illuminated garden is the smallest & the spring from which it derives its name is credited with medicinal properties, while Shalimar, the Abode of Love, was laid out by the Emperor Jahangir & is the most famous of the three. Here, a spectacular Son-et-Lumiere show recaptures the bewitching midsummer night's love of the Emperor & his beloved Queen, Noor Jahan.

Excursions

  • Nagin Lake :
    Calm & peaceful, the only ripples on its serene waters are caused by water-skiing enthusiasts, divers, swimmers & sailors. The Nagin lake is a paradise for a sporting aquatic holiday. On the banks is a club & a tea pavilion.

  • Wular lake :
    The largest fresh water lake in Asia, it is surrounded by towering mountains & the valleys below. The jade green waters swirl gently around a curious bubbling spring in the middle of the lake. A small & picturesque island, Zaina Lank, adds to the beautiful setting of the lake. Built by the famous Sultan, Zain-ul-Abidin, it is covered by the ruins of a mosque still showing fragments of elegant pillars & arches.

  • Khir Bhawani :
    25 kms. from Srinagar, it is a marble temple with a gold-plated dome. It stands in the middle of a pool formed by spring waters which change colours from time to time. Khir Bhawani is visited by hundreds of devotees.

  • Manasbal Lake :
    Laden with lotus in summer & a bird watcher's paradise, this lake is one of the largest haunts of aquatic birds in Kashmir. Small but beautiful, Manasbal's deep stretches ensure a peaceful clarity in its waters, making it a still haven among the mountains, water meadows & reeds. Its serenity is undisturbed by anything but the chirping of birds. A small rest house, huts & a cafeteria provide welcome facilities.

  • Awantipur :
    It is situated at a distance of 29 kms. from Srinagar on the Srinagar-Anantnag road. The town was founded by King Awantivarman who reigned Kashmir from 855-883 A.D. Its chief interest centres in two magnificent & massive temple ruins with which the founder embellished the town.

  • Achhabal :
    Situated at the foot of a forested hill, it is 56 kms. from Srinagar. The Mughal Garden here was designed in 1620 A.D. by Jahanara Begum, the daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan. Fountain cascades & pavilions & shaded by great trees. Nearby is a trout farm for seed fish. Tourists can stay in the tourist bungalow or tourist huts. A cafeteria in the garden serves tea & snacks.

How to get there

  • By Air :
    There are direct daily flights from New Delhi, while air passengers from Mumbai & Calcutta can get connecting flights from New Delhi on the same day. One can also fly to Srinagar from Jammu.

  • By Rail :
    Train services operate upto Jammu. From here, regular taxis & bus services are available.

  • By Road :
    Regular taxis & bus services are available from Jammu to Shrinagar.

Where to stay
Srinagar has excellent modern, European-style hotels, houseboats, private guest houses & tourist huts.

  • Hotels range from luxury to modest.

  • Tourist huts at Chashma Shahi have different rates according to size.

  • Houseboats are a unique experience by themselves.
    A typical houseboat has a verandah, a living room, a dining room, two or three bedrooms with separate bathrooms, & a sun deck on the roof. The interior is richly furnished.
    The rental charges are inclusive of meals in both Indian & European cuisine.
    The houseboats are classified into 4 different categories :
    Deluxe, A, B, & Economy.

Shopping

Kashmir is a handicraft lover's delight. Beauty abounds in Kashmiri artifacts: papier mache, lacquered & painted in floral designs, wood carvings & screens, carpets soft & fine in typical oriental designs. Silks, woollen shawls embroidered in traditional paisley & crewel work of great beauty.
Few places in the world as small as Kashmir offer such a rich variety of skilled craftsmanship.

The bazaars of Srinagar are full with handicraft stores & shops .The street vendors are everywhere, adding their own colour to this picturesque setting.

 

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